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Sanne: When I was visiting Ella at her home in Masan, South Korea, last year, I was very fascinated by her kimchi fridge, which was an entire fridge full of boxes with different kinds of pickled, fermented and salted vegetables. Ella’s mom makes most of the kimchi herself, and she makes big batches, so there are enough to last for a long time.

When I was there, Ella’s mom had just finished making chonggak kimchi, which is a type of kimchi made from a Korean radish. The radish used is small enough to be cut with a pair of kitchen scissors (another Korean kitchen essential), and the texture is crunchy and delicious.

Chonggak means bachelor in Korean, and I was told that chonggak kimchi got its name because the radish and the long green leaves resemble the hairstyle of single men in ancient Korea. Chonggak kimchi is also sometimes called ponytail kimchi, because of the long green “ponytail” leaves.

Ella and I had previously had chonggak kimchi at a restaurant, and Ella mentioned, that it was too sour and too soft, and not half as good as the one her mom makes, and after trying her mom’s kimchi, I completely agree. The homemade version is not too sour, with a slightly nutty flavor, and a delicious, crunchy texture. I wish I could give you the recipe, but the radish used for chonggak kimchi is rather difficult to find outside of Korea.

Sanne: When I was visiting Ella in Korea, she took me to a traditional Korean seafood restaurant right across from Gijang Haenyeo Village. Haenyeo refers to the female divers who used to earn a living by diving for various sea delicacies, mainly around Jeju Island, but also at a few other locations in Korea.

According to Ella, you can still witness these female divers in action today, although their numbers have significantly decreased. While I’m not sure that our dinner was sourced by female divers, everything we had tasted incredibly fresh and delicious, as if it had just been plucked from the sea.

We had octopus, mussels, and a range of other, unfamiliar treats including Gaebul, which is also known as penis fish because of..well, obvious reasons. Before we delve into the culinary aspects, let’s talk about what Gaebul actually is. Gaebul, scientifically known as Urechis unicinctus, is a marine worm that inhabits the coastal waters of Korea, Japan, and China. It’s long, cylindrical, and has an uncanny resemblance to a certain male anatomy, which has earned it the colloquial name “penis fish.” But don’t let its appearance deter you; there’s more to Gaebul than meets the eye.

In Korea, Gaebul holds a special place in the culinary tradition, and its consumption dates back centuries. It’s considered a delicacy and is often enjoyed raw, showcasing the country’s love for fresh and unique seafood. Gaebul is often found in coastal regions, particularly during the winter months, when it’s at its prime.

Preparing Gaebul is an art in itself. The worms are typically harvested by hand, a process that requires great skill. After harvesting, the Gaebul is thoroughly cleaned to remove sand and debris. It’s then sliced open to remove the intestines and cleaned again, leaving only the succulent flesh. The cleaned Gaebul is often served fresh, sometimes wriggling on the plate, to demonstrate its freshness.
So, what does Gaebul taste like? Well, it’s a taste that’s challenging to describe accurately. I would say it’s like a mix between clams and octopus, with a slightly briny, oceanic flavor, and it tastes delicious. The texture is soft and slightly chewy, and it’s best enjoyed when sliced into thin strips. It’s often served with dipping sauces, such as soy sauce and vinegar or gochujang, to enhance the overall taste.

Sanne: When Ella and I were visiting Jeonju Hanok village, we sat down for a refreshing bingsu treat at Cafe Dal, a cute little cafe in the heart of the historical village.

Bingsu is a Korean shaved ice dessert that comes in different flavors and has the most delightful, fluffy texture. The traditional version, known as “Patbingsu,” has a base of finely shaved ice, which is then topped with sweetened red beans and chewy rice cakes. This dessert has been enjoyed in Korea for centuries, dating back to the Joseon Dynasty, and it is still a very popular dessert. Bingsu was originally made with natural ice, but nowadays, the ice is typically mixed with condensed milk.
In Korea, patbingsu is enjoyed throughout the year, especially during the hot summer months. It’s a refreshing and cooling treat that helps combat the sweltering heat. However, there are no specific special occasions tied exclusively to patbingsu. Instead, it is commonly consumed as a dessert after a meal or as a sweet indulgence during casual outings with friends and family.

So, what does bingsu actually taste like? Well, imagine the fluffiest snowflake you’ve ever caught on your tongue, mixed with the sweetness of the beans and a touch of creaminess from the condensed milk. Today, bingsu machines are super high-tech, and the shaved ice used for bingsu is very finely grated and you won’t find any hard crystals in the fluffy bingsu “snow”.

The patbingsu we had at Dal was topped with a generous amount of chewy rice cake, which I really like. I haven’t always been a fan of sweetened red beans, which is a very popular ingredient in desserts in Korea and Japan, but it is something that I’ve learned to like, and today, I really enjoy the sweet, slightly nutty flavor, and the marzipan-like texture.

The bingsu was served in metal bowls, which Ella explained had the function of keeping the bingsu cool for longer. The owner at the place was really friendly and came over to talk, and when he heard I was from Denmark, there was no way around it, of course we needed to take a selfie:)